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This implies it needs to be much better suited for the ES-1 (without extra extension). If scanning these old slides is your only objective, and presuming you currently have the DSLR, and can discover an extension tube for DX, you may compare the macro lens expenditure with a film scanner. The lens is not a movie scanner of course, and a digital cam will NOT appropriate to copy color unfavorable movie, but it works for slides.
The Nikon 60 mm macro lens is exceptional for any close-up work, and I 'd assume the other comparable lenses are excellent too. I forecast the macro would rapidly become your preferred lens. This ES-1 setup works extremely well for scanning mounted slides quickly - like magic after you get the hang of it.
The macro lens optical quality is exceptional, however the other aspects are maybe not genuinely optimum (rush, installing, framing, etc), not the like a genuine movie scanner. However still rather easy, and which seems more than sufficient for this function to regain countless old slides for sentimental purposes.
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Honestly, due to the http://sethgprq551.bearsfanteamshop.com/why-you-re-failing-at-convert-slides-to-digital-files months of work that would be required on a movie scanner, this job went years without occurring at all. Above is a sample image copied from a 1990 35 mm Kodachrome slide, utilizing the ES-1 setup with the D 70S, 6 megapixels (is a cropped 1.5 x body).
The image is significantly bigger than your monitor screen, and to see complete size, you might have to save the bigger image and view with an image editor, or you might turn off Automatic Image Resizing in your web browser. The cam macro http://www.thefreedictionary.com/slides to digital lens seems the apparent bet for remarkable optical quality. :-RRB- Outcomes are undoubtedly sufficient. And did I discuss it is very quickly? Testing extremes perhaps, however here is the very same slide copied with a Canon A 620 Power Shot compact electronic camera (point & shoot) in its macro mode. No extra attachment was utilized - its macro mode gets this close if zoomed to wide-angle.
Pixel dimensions are roughly equivalent to scanning at 2500 dpi. This was a quickly kludged setup for the one image here. (My method: keep overdoing stuff to fix the next immediate problem). The cam was on a tripod. The slide was actually standing on edge on top of a light stand pole, accepted a piece of tape.
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This light was a 150 watt home incandescent light (possibly 2900K?) in a 10 inch clamp-on energy reflector on a light stand (about 15 inches from slide), through a plastic Tupperware tray (yet another light stand) covered with a white bed sheet to diffuse it sufficiently (this lighted area needs to be a couple of feet large, the slide at 1/2 inch is http://query.nytimes.com/search/sitesearch/?action=click&contentCollection®ion=TopBar&WT.nav=searchWidget&module=SearchSubmit&pgtype=Homepage#/slides to digital a wide angle circumstance).
The JPG was a little blue, and was changed here with -Blue and +Red. Auto exposure was ISO 100 and 1/80 second (dead time shutter to let camera stop shaking). This camera takes 4:3 photos, however the slide was 3:2, so completions are cropped. Or, a bit more range would have made the image smaller so it would all fit, and after that it might have been cropped to 3:2.
A straight edge held to the leading railing on the right reveals a comparable bow, which is noticeable. Substantial vignetting (dark corners). This is a pretty extreme scenario for the little compact video camera lens. Uncertain you would actually desire to try this, however it can work. I did feel the extremely strong need for a hassle-free slide holder.
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Compacts do not define convert glass slides Click here to digital their macro recreation ratio, so the calculator can not include them. Numerous other approaches of holding and illuminating the slide are definitely possible. If you have a longer macro lens, you surely require something other than the ES-1 anyway. You simply require a diffused light behind the slide, and a cam and macro lens in front of it.
One typical method puts a lighted white paper or foam board background a foot or so behind the slide, with the cam and macro lens on a tripod in front. Slide holder might be a plastic tablet bottle screwed to a board, with a slot cut at leading to hold the slide standing up.
Camera tripod screws are a common 1/4-20 UNC screw (Unified Thread Requirement, coarse thread, 1/4 inch size, 20 pitch per inch), common in any North American hardware store. Speedlight flash is also great for freezing video camera shake. Or, merely standing the slide on a routine lighted slide sorting tray is essentially the very same thing, pointing the lens at it, rear lighted.
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The holder should be simple and quick and stable, you don't want it to move. Here's a cool Do It Yourself idea shared by Jim Simpson in Nova Scotia Canada. The grooved mounting for slides is 3/4 inch wood knobs, and it looks really convenient and easy to run. Tokina 100 mm macro lens on Nikon D 7100 cam, using a white screen flashlight app (Android).
White balance is Cloudy, or Shade in some cases (remedying private slides will differ a little). Mounting the camera and the slide on the very same board decreases any possibility of electronic camera shake. Of course, these do need to be mounted at the appropriate range so that the slide fills your frame at your normal 1:1 or 1:1.5 focus distance.